Zind Humbrecht: Alsace's Grandmaster
Zind Humbrecht is undoubtedly one of the greatest estates of Alsace, and one of the very early pioneers of biodynamics. The quality of the wines is all down to the hard work that Olivier Humbrecht MW puts in; the attention to detail is astonishing, plus the fact that he has fantastic vineyards to start with. It is difficult to generalise and sum up a ‘house’ style for ZH, but if pushed I would say the wines are always flamboyant and hedonistic, but with an underlying nervosity with crystalline acidity and, even though the wines carry varying levels of sweetness, there is always a pleasant dryness to the finish. They are never cloying nor top-heavy.
There are a great, great number of wines produced here from the various crus and varieties available, so we have made a selection of his Turckheim varietals of Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurztraminer, the holy trinity of varieties, and one of the single vineyard sites, Clos Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer, which is a wine that that I have great fondness for. This is a truly profound wine.
Considering that Zind Humbrecht is one of France’s truly great white wine producers, these wines offer quite remarkable value.
Richard Ballantyne MW